Travelling to Albania had always been a dream of mine. At 14, I had to deliver a presentation to my English class about an upcoming pop star. Don't ask me why, but I chose Dua Lipa. It turns out she is of Albanian heritage, which was a surprise since the assignment was supposed to be about a British pop star (oops). Since then, I have become determined to explore the full Balkan peninsula. When deciding on my summer itinerary, a trip to Albania was the first plan in the diary. It matched my dreams: home to a fascinating culture and some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, yet still somewhat of an underdog, fighting to open the world’s eyes to its riches.
At the time, Albania wasn’t as trendy as it is now – speaking as if it was 1942, but no, it was only 2023! I couldn’t convince any of my friends to go due to the negative stereotypes associated with the country and the lack of Albanian TikTok-friendly content at the time. Fortunately, I met someone who shared my goal: open-minded to giving Albania a fair chance and discovering its wonderful humans and geography, without tainting it with the negative connotations attached to it.
And what a fantastic time I had! I explored the ancient ruins of Butrint, the wild and quirky city of Tirana, the stunning turquoise waters of Ksamil, and the eerie, colourful and picturesque city of Berat. There’s so much to see in this country, but it’s not for the faint-hearted.
Albania will most certainly give you a culture shock at first, but if you love a country that’s a bit rough around the edges and has natural beauty untouched by big corporations (for now), you’ll adore Albania. I certainly do, and I want to start this blog by simply saying everyone should visit this hidden gem in the heart of Europe (or maybe not! I don’t want it to become too mainstream, haha).
Nonetheless, here are the things I learned — and what you should know — about travelling to, and around, Albania.
1. Albania is one of the least developed countries in Europe.
What does this mean? Many roads are in poor condition. Central bus stations tend to be inconveniently located, and public transportation can be a headache (hope you like minibuses).
The tap water isn’t safe to drink, so stock your room with bottled water from local markets.
Your accommodation might be really basic, and the Wi-Fi may be spotty. However, this adds character to your experience. I personally loved it!
Bank cards, though usable, are not as widely accepted as in other European countries. Carrying cash will make your life much easier, especially if you want to enjoy local markets and try food from the small local fairs.
Outside the tourist areas, you may find very few people who speak English. There is little tourism infrastructure outside Tirana, Saranda, and Berat, though this is starting to change as Albania grows into a desirable travel destination. Does that make Albania a bad place? Not at all. I’m just saying this so you know what to expect before you arrive.
2. The Albanian language
While Albanian is technically an Indo-European language, it’s not related to any other living language, much like Basque. In upscale parts of Tirana, the city centre of Berat, Saranda, and Ksamil, you can get by with English; sometimes, Albanians speak Greek or Italian as their second language too.
But, like anywhere else, learning a few words of the local language will delight the locals. Përshëndetje (per-shen-DET-yeh) means hello, and faleminderit (fa-la-min-DAIR-eet) means thank you.
3. Get ready to learn the Albanian flag by heart
The Albanian flag is everywhere, and not just on government buildings. Albania loves its flag. The blood-red flag topped with a double-headed eagle is seen everywhere throughout the country.
They sell Albanian flag merchandise everywhere — think t-shirts, posters, and tea towels. Did
someone say souvenirs?
4. Albania is comparatively very cheap.
In a country as affordable as Albania, hit up a restaurant with a view! When I first visited, I was cautious about prices, especially because the currency was different. However, when the maths started ‘mathing’, I realised Albania is a very affordable destination, allowing you to experience more with a short budget.
Just one thing — make sure to spend all your Albanian lek before leaving the country!
5. Getting around Albania & a £10 fine (oops).
Cities like Tirana don’t have particularly convenient central bus stations (there are four not closely located to each other) or travel agencies that work with every bus company. There are also effectively no trains in Albania, so don’t expect them!
You can rent a car in Albania (which I did). Be aware that the roads aren’t in the best condition (by European standards), and the driving can be a bit chaotic. But if you’re up for the challenge, this is the way to get off the beaten path and visit the best beaches. We drove from Tirana to Ksamil and it was a dreamy experience.
Hiring a car was easy. All you need is a credit card, a valid driving license, and 'bad bitch energy,' because Albanian drivers are chaotic. But once you’ve got the hang of it, the coastal drives are among the best you’ll ever see. Blue crystal-clear waters, cliffs, viewpoints, Kate Nash blasting on your speakers, and exquisite secluded locations – I have the travel blues just writing about it.
P.S. We did get fined on our last day, which was funny at the time because all we did was overtake on a straight line! If only they’d seen some of the other drivers! So, if you do hire a car, be careful.
6. Where to go in Albania?
There are so many options for where to go in Albania. To get a decent overview of the country, I recommend basing yourself in different regions and exploring from there.
Tirana: Tirana was a huge surprise to me! I had no idea I would love Albania’s capital city as much as I did. I think I loved it because it was my first day in warm sunny Albania and, at the time, an escape from grey rainy Glasgow. I also stayed in a lovely neighbourhood close to Blloku, an upscale area that used to be exclusively for Tirana’s elite and it felt like a dream come true.
Berat: I visited Berat to see its old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I wasn’t disappointed either! It’s the city of a thousand windows! We stayed in a typical Albanian house, saw an unending number of cats and ate lovely food. The Ottoman architecture was for sure a major highlight!
Ksamil, Saranda, Himare & Gjipe: Albania is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe (personal opinion, but I don’t think people can differ). Here you’ll find incredible pebbled beaches with clear turquoise water. Saranda (Sarandë) is the largest town in the region, with direct ferries from Corfu, Greece. From Saranda, you can easily visit the town of Ksamil (famous for its Maldive-style islands in its bay), the ancient Roman ruins of Butrint, the vivid natural colours of the Blue Eye, and more. However, Himare and Gjipe also offer more secluded beaches, and if you’re lucky, you’ll have a paradise all to yourself.
I’d recommend a ‘short’ road trip from Tirana > Vlore > Himare > Gjipe > Saranda > Ksamil > Blue Eye > Berat > Tirana (you need to give that car back haha)
Note: I did not visit the north of Albania, but the plan to go to those mountains (Eerily known as the Accursed Mountains) is still standing.
7. How to get to Albania?
Albania isn’t on any major travel routes, but in 2024 it’s easy enough to get there from most major UK cities (thanks Ryanair). Tirana International Airport is the only major airport, with direct flights from all over Europe.
If you’d rather start in Southern Albania, fly to Corfu and take the ferry to Saranda. Corfu is very well-connected flight-wise and ferries operate daily to get you to Saranda (depending on the time of the year you visit).
Albania has a Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and chilly winters. It’s one of the sunniest countries in Europe, with mountains in the north and beaches in the south. If you’re exploring Albania in the summer, I recommend avoiding the peak months of July and August. May/early June and late September are the best times to visit.
I could never recommend this place enough. It’s a bittersweet experience because it’s changing so quickly. As I said earlier, Albania is no longer undiscovered. I keep hearing “Montenegro is the new Croatia, and Albania is the new Montenegro.”
In the past years, Albania has grown as a major travel destination, especially the Albanian Alps in the north. They attract lots of travellers who plan on hiking the magnificent Theth National Park. This is an area to watch.
The beaches in the south have also been discovered. Plenty of travellers also settle in Durrës and Vlorë, places that are a little bit grittier but affordable. And naturally, a country is only as great as the humans that make it. Albanians are incredibly hospitable, talkative, and generous; displaying broad smiles no matter if you’re walking in Skenderbeu Square in Tirana or driving past a rural farm in the south of the country. I had no concerns over safety during my time there and was left with a wonderful impression of the people inhabiting such a beautiful country.
Albania is truly great, and whether you decide to go now or in a few years, you’ll be glad you did (trust me!).
I definitely left my heart in Albania and cannot wait to go back!
By Nathalia Almeida who works at Llama Travel .
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